Fashion then and now

Fashion is cyclical. It responds to the time and culture in which it exists. Fashion is an ever changing trend that will be completely different from the year before and will call upon its own past for inspiration in the future.  Current styles obviously differ from the popular wears of the early 20th century, but there are similar concepts that exist between the fashion trends of today and yesterday.

For instance, those who control the fashion industry still seem to think that body parts can just go in and out of style as easily as a cardigan or mini skirt, as the Day Book from Chicago seems to tell us.

The day book., October 27, 1915, LAST EDITION, Image 13 http://tinyurl.com/7zp5okh

Remember when feet were an unpopular accessory during the Ugg Boot surge? Yeah, I’m hoping to forget that also.

The popularity of a certain style of skirt dictates the popularity of a certain style of shoe or shirt to go with it. According to the Day Book, ankle muffs were really only worn due to the popularity of shorter, wider skirts during the winter season.

The day book., October 08, 1915, LAST EDITION, Image 13 http://tinyurl.com/6umjl6c

Fashion can be recyclable. Thrift stores and consignment shops are more popular and trendy today than they’ve ever been. Borrowing clothes and styles from family is also very trendy. Wearing an old sweater that you found in your grandma’s closet is like wearing a badge of honor. The popularity of recycled fashion has apparently been around for quite some time.

The day book., July 14, 1915, LAST EDITION, Image 13 http://tinyurl.com/7v84vcn

There are those among us, however, that will always oppose the concept of fashion, or even condemn it.

The day book., December 07, 1915, LAST EDITION, Image 13 http://tinyurl.com/842p7nf

But I think it’s safe to say, however, that fashion isn’t going anywhere.

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Is it 2012 yet?

The end of every year brings the promise of a better year to come. Many begin to plan out their obligatory, “New Year’s Resolutions,” which usually range somewhere between losing weight to quitting their job and volunteering in Kenya.  No matter how you slice it, people want to start each year from scratch, with a clean slate, and with an opportunity to reach goals that might have been abandoned during the previous year. New Year’s Resolutions stem from all of us wanting to kick old vices to the curb and improve our lives, which explains why so many resolutions are similar and really don’t change much over the years. Take for example this New Year’s cartoon from the Wichita Daily Eagle. Two men vow to quit smoking for the New Year, placing a $50 bet on the resolution.  One of men must smoke, so he takes a small blimp up in the air where his friend will never catch him. But the blimp catches fire when he lights his cigarette, falling to the ground where he is caught in the act by his friend.

The Wichita daily eagle., December 27, 1903, EDITORIAL SECTION, Image 18 http://tinyurl.com/7oz8m9w

And in another New Year’s comic, a man resolves to stop swearing, but from the time he wakes up until he arrives at work he is put in many situations that would provoke him to swear.

The times dispatch., December 27, 1903, MAGAZINE SECTION, Image 21 http://tinyurl.com/7o5b3rb

Many people, like the characters in these comics, fail to keep their resolutions for very long, so it’s always encouraging to see when people actually succeed at their intentions, as unusual as their resolutions might be.  This gentleman resolved to not cut his hair until a democratic president was elected and has the mane to prove his dedication.

The day book., February 03, 1913, Image 22 http://tinyurl.com/86elkb8

Or this Eugenic couple, who vowed to be physically and mentally fit in order to improve the genetic make-up of the human population.

The day book., March 03, 1914, NOON EDITION, Image 11 http://tinyurl.com/6ocl8sl

There is always the hope that the New Year will bring joy and promise to all, no matter what their resolutions may be. From all of us at the Oregon Digital Newspaper Program, Happy New Year!

The Jasper news., December 27, 1917, Image 6 http://tinyurl.com/6omadcy

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How the Grinch Stole Christmas and Other Holiday Robbery Stories

As we approach the fourth night of Hanukkah and with Christmas just around the corner, it’s time to put together the last minute touches for the holidays. Hanukkah presents wrapped? Check. Stockings hung on the fireplace? Check. Alarm systems on the house active? Check?

You may not have noticed, but so many Christmas stories and movies employ the familiar theme of burglars robbing people during the holidays: How the Grinch Stole Christmas, Bad Santa, Home Alone and all of its sequels. Our society seems to have a fascination with people who are perpetually on Santa’s “naughty list.” Take for instance this article from the Evening public ledger in Philadelphia, PA.

Evening public ledger December 24, 1921, Night Extra, Page 3, Image 3 http://tinyurl.com/73y2clq

And this news clipping from the Scott County kicker in Benton, Mo. is another example of the bad guys making the top stories over the winter season.

Scott County kicker., January 10, 1914, Image 3 http://tinyurl.com/7aavk6k

Christmas robberies make for great stories. There’s a sense of holiday spirit, adventure, and the good guy always getting the last laugh. Take for instance this story from The Sunday Oregonian about a young woman who saves Christmas day from a robber set out to ruin it all. Betty, a young and brave girl headed to see her mother, encounters a robbery in progress while she’s traveling. Thanks to her quick wit, she’s able to trick the robber into leaving his captives, allowing her to take them all to safety.

The Sunday Oregonian December 18, 1904, Image 44 http://tinyurl.com/8xnksfa

So this holiday season, avoid becoming part of a headline, and have a safe and merry season. From all of us here at Chronicling America, lock your doors!

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A Holiday Mystery

Ah yes, it’s that time of year again, the holiday season is officially upon us. Christmas music is playing in all the stores, Santas are appearing in every mall and hoards of people are clamoring to find the right gifts for their loved ones.  With constraints on time and money it’s nearly impossible to buy thoughtful gifts for everyone on your list. Christmas cards provide a great and affordable way to show people that you’re thinking about them this holiday season, and it’s easy to add a personal touch to cards with a nice hand written message or by slipping in some family photos.

The Christmas card has been a traditional holiday exchange for many years, but the origins of this beloved practice remain somewhat shrouded in mystery.  According to an article from The Bourbon news, the first Christmas card can be attributed to three different men.

The Bourbon news, December 06, 1921, Image 11 http://tinyurl.com/74fjmu7

But in a separate article from the Warren Sheaf,  (from Warren, Marshall County, Minn.), only one man is credited with this holiday invention.

Warren sheaf, December 17, 1919, Christmas Edition, Second Section, Image 12 http://tinyurl.com/7d57tfs

And even still, The Rice Belt Journal does not credit the cards to any one man, but instead states, “About a hundred years ago the first Christmas cards were used. These were printed in London and consisted of a visiting card with the words “A Merry Christmas,” printed on it.”

So who had it right? Well it seems all three publications got it partially right. According to György Buday’s book, The history of the Christmas card, the first Christmas card was designed by John Callcott Horsley, (JC Horsley), in 1843 at the request of Sir Henry Cole. In London, two batches of cards were made available, totally 2,050 cards sold for a shilling each.

The first Christmas card showed a family enjoying a holiday dinner, with a greeting for the receiver to have a “Merry Christmas and Happy New Year” Image is in the public domain.

In 1875 Louis Prang became the first printer to offer cards in America. Here’s an ad for Christmas card booklets from The Evening Herald in Klamath Falls, OR.

The Evening herald, Klamath Falss, Oregon. December 1, 1919: http://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn99063812/1919-12-01/ed-1/seq-8/

So when you’re out shopping for the perfect gifts, remember that Christmas cards are a great way to show someone that you’re thinking of them this holiday season.

Season’s Greetings from all of us at the Oregon Digital Newspaper Program!

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Website will be down 12/14 for Maintenance

Greetings all,

Our website will be down on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 for some routine maintenance, but will be up and running again on Thursday!  We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.

Best wishes,

Oregon Digital Newspaper Staff

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Thanksgiving Thoughts

All too often Thanksgiving can feel like a pit stop on in the holiday highway starting at Halloween and ending at New Year’s.   The Christmas decorations are up before we slice the pumpkin pie and people are waiting in line for Black Friday sales before the turkey as settled in their bellies.  So let’s take a moment to look at Thanksgivings past and some of the things we can be grateful for.

Not having to kill and clean our own turkeys for the Thanksgiving feast.  The turkey may be the king of Thanksgiving, but uneasy lies the head that wears that crown.  Finding a bird in a hermetically sealed bag that does not share a likeness to an actual living creature can be a great relief for those preparing their Thanksgiving feats.  The comparison of the bird to the children adds a nice Hansel and Gretel twist to this Thanksgiving photo from the Omaha Daily Bee.

Omaha daily bee., November 26, 1899, Image 27

When there are too many cooks in the kitchen or when you have some time to relax, it’s nice to have a little entertainment whether it be the Thanksgiving parade or a good football game.  Not everybody agrees that football is a fitting Thanksgiving activity.

“When our Puritan fathers thought it wise and well to give thanks to God for the benefits showered upon them little did they think that in after years this, their day of greatest worship to the Creator of every good and perfect thing, would be turned into a day for the purpose of distributing football trophies among the youths whose muscle was their religion and whose halfback was their God.” San Francisco Call November 28, 1895.

We might not enjoy the hours of traffic and flight delays required to get to and from our Thanksgiving destinations, but we can be assured that as we sit in traffic, snug in our cars listening to music and reading books, that we are traveling in ease and comfort compared to holiday travelers 100 years ago.

New-York tribune., November 25, 1906, Image 17

Whether you serve a turkey you harvested yourself from the nearby foothills or a soy-based turkey substitute, the fundamentals of Thanksgiving remain the same.  We are given one day to gather together with the people we care about and take a moment to appreciate everything that life has to offer.  That is something to be thankful for.  Happy Thanksgiving!

New-York tribune., November 25, 1906, Image 17

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The case of the fallen mummy

Like the ghosts and jack-o-lanterns we see everywhere this time of year, mummies have become an icon of Halloween.  Although mummies make their appearance alongside the werewolves, vampires, zombies, and Frankensteins in all of the Scooby-doo cartoons, they are rarely the members of the monster community that captivate the imaginations of the modern viewer.  Mummies are typically depicted as being slow, clumsy, and less-exciting versions of zombies.

Mummies were not always the second-class monsters that we think of today.  During the late nineteenth and early twentieth century mummies were the monsters that captivated the minds of authors, artists, musicians, scholars, fashion designers, and homemakers. The interest in Egypt can be seen in every aspect of American culture: the Washington Monument in DC, Louisa May Alcott’s Lost in a Pyramid, or the Mummy’s Curse, or  in the daily news.  Hundreds of articles can be found in Chronicling America and Historic Oregon Newspapers that provides a little more insight into this misunderstood monster.  In the April 22, 1906 Sunday Oregonian, George Ade described his travels in Egypt, where he encountered a young American student of Egyptology who had some experience with mummy trafficking.

Sunday Oregonian April 22, 1906 http://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn83045782/1906-04-22/ed-1/seq-41/

According to Ade’s acquaintance, mummy prices varied greatly depending on the state of preservation, the status of the individual who was mummified, and the quality of decoration on the casket.  A Ramesses or Ptolemy would be sold for upwards of $1,000, while the mummies of more modest grandeur would be sold for $60-$125.  Ade’s friend offered to sell him a mummy who was “probably a tourist,” for the bargain price of $7.50.

If you wanted to see a mummy, but lacked the  funds to travel all the way to Egypt, you could visit the Lewis and Clark 1905 Exposition in Portland, Oregon.  There were several mummies on display at the World’s Fair, but it was the “Rockafeller mummy” that seemed to attract the crowds for its uncanny resemblance to the famous oil magnate, John D. Rockafeller.

Hopkinsville Kentuckian October 12, 1905 http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86069395/1905-10-12/ed-1/seq-7/

If the thought of having a real mummy in your living room was a bit too gruesome, there were other ways to bring the fashionable mummy craze into your home.  Several newspapers, including the Saint Paul Globe, ran articles on the scarcity of mummies and the effect on the art world.

St. Paul Globe January 24, 1904 http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1904-01-24/ed-1/seq-28/

Mummies were popping up everywhere and rather than making people jump and exclaim “Jinkies!” they were regarded as a sign of sophistication.  Literature and operas written in Europe and the United States increased the popularity and fascination of the mummy.  Richard Carle and Robert Hood Bower’s 1904 Broadway musical, The Maid and the Mummy, was equally as praised for the music and the acting as it was the costumes.  The mummy was so successful at capturing the imaginations of the general public that its influences could be found in popular fashion.  The November 22, 1908 Washington Times ran this full-page article, which advises ladies not to “tilt a disdainful nose and look offended” if she is referred to as a mummy, but rather “smile with a conscious superiority and accept it as a compliment.”

Washington Times November 22, 1908 http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1908-11-22/ed-1/seq-43/

The demand for mummies was so high that it was difficult for suppliers to fill their orders with the genuine item.  Several articles, like this one from the September 30, 1906 Los Angeles Herald Sunday Supplement, warns of the fraudulent mummies being manufactured and sold to Americans seeking genuine Egyptian antiquities.

Los Angeles Herald September 30, 1906 http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026749/1908-11-22/ed-1/seq-43/

Like all celebrities, the mummy fell from stardom and has faded into the collection of monsters roaming the streets on Halloween night in search of treats.  Perhaps it is time for a revival of interest?  Find more exciting Halloween stories in the news at Chronicling America!

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